But, eventually something bad’s going to happen.
Yeah, and that’s the nature of surfing, I think. People are going to push and push and push until something breaks. Something will happen one day that will make people say, “Oooh, I’m going to pull back a bit. You’ve just gotta hope it’s not you.
What do you think of Niccolo Porcella’s wipeout? Did that rattle you?
Oh, definitely, that’s the one spot at Teahupo’o where you look at it and just think, “If I was there I would definitely die.” And he didn’t die. He went back out and caught another wave, and it looked like he died again, but he didn’t! I think it’s just really kind of getting rid of everyone’s fear of big-wave tuberiding, seeing someone come out of that.
How big would it have to be at Teahupo’o for you to be really, really scared?
I think there’s always that level of fear at Teahupo’o, but it’s exciting. Like, if there were big chops running through it, it would make it even more exciting. I mean, I’d obviously love a clean and easy takeoff, but if it had chops through it, it’d be scarier and more exciting, because you’ve gotta master it.
Is there any wave that you really want to surf right now? One that you have your eye on?
Ah, I tried to get Skeleton Bay. I stayed in Africa for soooo long, waiting, an extra 16 days after I lost [at J-Bay], and I didn’t get it. It never worked. It’s evading me.
So is the key to being a good big-wave barrel rider to just… not be scared?
Yup, I would have to say that. If you were just not scared and you went out there and took off deep, you’d do it. I mean, that Niccolo guy, he’d never even been here! But he went out and towed 25-foot Chopes.
How big would you paddle Chopes, versus tow?
Paddle, I guess the size is 10 or 12 feet. But I don’t really know about towing. I kinda haven’t gone there yet. I only started the other day, for the first time, at home with some friends. I don’t really have enough experience to comment. I’d maybe do 15-foot here towing.
With Mick and Adriano out, has it crossed your mind that the Title race has just opened up?
It definitely does, but I never really think about it, because I’ve had a bunch of 5ths and 9ths, and just one win. It’s not like I was Semis and Finals all the time like those guys. But somehow I’m still there in the top-five. It opens up an opportunity, but I feel like it’s early to tell. If I do well in this event? Then sure, I’ll be there in that zone and I’ll be able to think about it more. But I’m not there yet.
Who do you think is the best barrel rider in the world?
Oh, it’d have to be Kelly, for sure. Outside of competition, then I’d have to say Jamie O, because he does so much switch stuff. He’s not just getting barreled now, he’s bringing second boards in the tube and everything like that. He’s got so much awareness that he doesn’t just ride a barrel; he’s gotten to the point where he can perform a stunt inside the tube.
If you were going to perform a stunt inside a tube, what would it be?
Nothing. I go so mind-blank when I’m in the tube. You couldn’t tell me to think something.
Is it your favorite feeling in the world, apart from sex?
Tuberiding is better. It’s more often, it lasts longer and you know you can get it again.
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Surfline's official event forecast:
Short period SW swell and onshore S wind prevails Thursday morning with generally poor quality surf. Friday will see a building trend of mid size, mid period S swell as trades swing more to the SE/ESE and quality will improve. The surf will likely back down over the weekend as swell direction trends more to the SSE/SE and moderate+ trades continue. Fairly solid, building, and long period SW swell fills in through Monday and likely holds into Tuesday morning before easing over Tuesday afternoon. Strong trades (side/offshore) prevail both days.